Citizens of Humanity, Seven for all Mankind, Rock and Republic, People for Peace, Chip and Pepper, Salt Works and True Religion are among some of the most popular brands of denim available today. Why are these brands popular? Is it their style, fit or wash? Or could it be that the expensive price tag that accompanies them is a status symbol for Generation Y? As clothing and denim prices reach an all time high, it is crucial that we analyze both the positive and negative effects of this on the markets and the retail industry as a whole.

            Canadian Value Investor’s denim report of 2003 mentioned brands such as Parasuco, Mavi, Silver and Guess, all of which are brand names which offered denim at prices less than $150.00. Within two years, trends in the denim market have shifted towards premium denim at higher costs. Retailers such as Guess, Gap, and Abercrombie & Fitch are suffering as the shift towards expensive denim has a direct effect on the sales of their denim lines. Brands popular in past years have altered their denim lines to include higher priced premium denim to compete in today’s market. As the popularity of denim increases overall, retailers are responding by producing large amounts of denim. We are now seeing an oversupply of denim as too many brands have infiltrated the market.

History of Denim and Jeans

            To understand the popularity of denim today, it is important that we examine its origins and roots. As defined by The Encyclopedia Britannica, denim is a “durable twill-woven fabric with colored (usually blue) warp (lengthwise), and white filling (crosswise) threads, also sometimes woven in colored stripes.”[1]  Jeans were first invented in Genoa, Italy, where the first pair of jeans was made for the Genoa Navy. The need was for an all purpose pant that could be worn dry or wet, with legs that could be easily rolled up when swabbing the deck. That was how jeans were first introduced for the sailors.

The word jean was named after the sailors from Genoa, Italy, and the term denim came from the name of a French material, serge de Nimes which means: serge (kind of material) de Nimes (a town in France).

            The term Denim has been used in America since the late 18^th century, and denotes a rugged cotton twill textile, traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make “blue jeans.” Levi Strauss, a Bavarian dry goods merchant who immigrated to New York in 1847, and then moved to San Francisco, is credited as being the inventor of the trousers called denim jeans. Although the jean had already been created by the Geneo Navy, Levi is known as being the inventor of the jean as he was the first one to produce and market the product. In 1873, Levi Strauss joined Jacob Davis, a tailor who frequently purchased goods such as bolts and cooper rivets from the Levi Strauss & Co wholesale house. Jacob Davis came up with the innovative idea to use copper rivets to reinforce the points of strain on pants (pocket corners, button fly, etc). On May 20, 1873, Strauss and Davis received patent # 139 and #121 from the United States Patent and Trademark Office. Levis jeans were created using denim, which consumers found to be comfortable and practical for work clothes.

            Jeans were worn in the eighteenth century as trade, slave labor and cotton plantations increased. The jean cloth was worn by the workers as the material was very strong, and lasted longer than traditional materials. During the California gold rush, gold miners also chose to wear jeans, since they were strong and didn’t tear easily.           

It wasn’t until the 1940’s that denim became leisure wear among Americans, thanks to celebrities such as Elvis Presley and James Dean. Denim became popular with the younger generation, yet was banned in some schools across America.  The 60’s and 70’s brought a whole new look to denim, with rips, patches and flared legs. Jeans were the groovy thing to wear. Through the 80’s and 90’s we have seen denim evolve into a designer style. Denim is constantly being reinvented to fit the latest trends.

Denim Today

The denim market has become segmented and shattered into a multitude of niche markets. Previously dominant brands such as Levis, Wrangle and Gap jeans cannot provide the perception of a “cult value” one has when owning the smaller labels. Levis currently struggles to appeal to the 18-24 age group, as they lost their consumer base to brands such as Parasuco, Buffalo, Tommy Jeans, and Mavi.

Unable to compete with the growing trend of expensive denim brands, basic retailers such as Gap and Abercrombie & Fitch have experienced a decline in their denim sales this year, and they are trying hard to pull out of the denim glut. The trend seems to be European inspired, as North American women are now investing in expensive pieces for their wardrobe instead of purchasing inexpensive clothing in mass quantities.  In order to understand where this trend in premium denim is going, we will now examine each of the premium denim brands prevalent in the market today.

Sevens for All Mankind

                Jerome Dahan, who also created the wildly popular Citizens of Humanity label, is the originator of Seven Jeans, a label that has become a household name in designer denim. This label targets both men and women from 18 to 50 years of age. There are plenty of different designs, washes and fits to cater to everyone. Some styles include stretch for a tighter fit, but most have no stretch at all. One disadvantage to the Seven jeans are that the younger crowd finds the waist to be slightly high, compared to its competitors. As the Brazilian jean was recently popular (the extremely low waisted jeans), a low fit is now regarded as the norm in denim for teens and young adults. One of the trends in denim this season is the crystal pocket. These jeans that have crystals on the back pockets that are perfect for dressing up denim, for the nightlife crowd. Overall, Sevens for All Mankind are a thick, quality denim with a variety of fits for both the skinnier individuals and curvy consumers. This brands price varies by retailer, but is generally in the $215.00 to $300.00 CAN price range. The older styles can be seen on sale for $150.00, but most trend setters want the newest style on the market. Sevens are available in independent retail outlets such as Over the Rainbow, as well as chain retailers such as Aritzia, Urban Outfitters, Mendocino, and Holt Renfrew.

Citizens of Humanity

Jerome Dahan of Sevens for All Mankind is the mastermind behind this amazingly hot denim line. Citizens of Humanity are known for their high quality and vintage looks. To set them apart from their competition, Citizens include more stretch in their denim line, for an extremely tight fit through the waist and thigh. It is a low rise, but  it isn’t so low that it is unflattering. This jean is a definite must for those with a curvy figure, as it is much more accommodating to the hips, behind and thighs. Citizens of Humanity are broken down into six separate styles: Naomi, Ingrid, Kelly, Elle, Ashbury and Faye. The most popular fit is the Naomi, as they look great on everyone. The Naomi is a slight flare leg with a very slim fit throughout. They are long enough to wear with heels, and the seam on the side of the leg elongates the legs, making them appear slimmer. The second most popular style seen worn on many celebrities is the Faye style. This style is more of a trouser look with a wider leg. Citizens of Humanity are a younger jean, attracting the 18 to 30 crowd with price points of $208.00 to $300.00 CAN. It is available in many independent retailers such as Leleo and Over the Rainbow, and many chain retailers such as Aritzia, Unicus, Mendocino, and Holt Renfrew.

Paper Denim & Cloth

            Paper Denim & Cloth grew out of the desire to create a quality American denim line. The line stands out from its counterparts, as it is hand finished and produced in low numbers as every jean is numbered. This jean is a very slim fit and appeals to those with slender legs and narrow hips. The fit is low rise with a double banded waist band, and the leg cut varies with each style. The Tru Body style is a flare leg with a tight waist, whereas the NYC fit is a straight leg, which is very rare for denim lines trying to appeal to the younger crowd! Their men’s jean line includes the LTD which has a wide full leg opening for a loose comfortable fit and the GTO jean which has an opening at the bottom for a slight flare. Paper Denim & Cloth’s prices are comparable to other premium brands, at $145.00 to $200.00 U.S. This brand is hard to find in Canada, as it is a smaller brand, but is available at Over the Rainbow and Holt Renfrew.

Salt Works

Steve Greenfield, the designer of Salt, previously worked for Replay, Earl Jeans and AG. After working for 12 years in the jean business, he decided to start his own label by asking customers what they wanted in a premium jean. Many responses indicated that consumers wanted a clean and sexy jean, with not much detailing. The company was launched in May 2004, and began selling in August of the same year. With three separate fits: the Avenue A jean, the Mulberry Street jean, and the Orchard Street jean, Salt Works jeans are bound to fit any body shape. These names all derived from different NYC streets. Salt Works plans to launch a men’s line in the spring of next year to accommodate the growing trend of premium denim lines for male consumers. A quote from Nylon Magazine explains the Salt Works craze: “Without salt, muscles wouldn't contract, the heart wouldn't beat, and you wouldn't have something in your closet that goes with everything. At least that's what we decided when we saw Salt, a new line of denim that goes back to the basics - no gimmicks, no ostentatious back pocket designs, and no ugly washes. Instead, Salt jeans are as simple, timeless, and necessary as the fine white crystals you sprinkle on your fries.” These jeans are also hard to find in Canadian denim stores, but are available at Aritzia, Over the Rainbow and Holt Renfrew. The prices are slightly lower than its competitors, at $120.00 to $140.00 U.S.

Rock & Republic

This new denim line, created by Michael Ball, took off in Los Angeles, California. The inspiration for this line is to build a sexy America, and provide a hot trendy looking jean to the premium denim market. Michael started the Rock & Republic line two years ago, when he designed a pair of jeans for his girlfriend, and received many compliments about the jeans every time she would wear them. Each pair of Rock & Republic jeans is the namesake of a famous rock star, and the line includes such apparel as "the Courtney," "the Sting", and "the Mick." It is apparent that the names of the jeans and the whole line itself draws in the youthful consumer, and appeals as a sexy denim line for all.
    Ranging in colors from blue to white to the pinky mauve of "the Lenny," Rock & Republic jeans are tight, low cut and extremely sexy.  Michael Ball is planning to introduce Rock & Republic’s men’s clothing line next year. But for now, the women’s line has taken off with enormous popularity; it’s hard to keep the jeans in the stores! "My goal is to build a 'Sexy' America," Ball said in a press release. "I think once someone wears the jeans, they can see how it enhances their shapes and they are guaranteed to receive compliments. I want people to feel sexy and have them be happy about their bodies."

To compete with its rivals, Seven and Citizens of Humanity jeans, Rock & Republic jeans are priced from $199.99 to $295.00 CAN. Along with its competitors, this jean is available at a wide range of Canadian Retailers such as Aritzia, Over the Rainbow, Unicus, Leleo, and Holt Renfrew, who carries the widest selection of the brand.

Conclusion

Premium denim lines are all the rage right now, but how much is a pair of jeans really worth? While all of these denim lines are fashionable and unique, will this trend persist? Currently, as I continue to venture into denim retailers across Toronto, this trend seems to prevail, with women of all ages and now even men giving into the pressures of looking fashionable. Finding a pair of comfortable, stylish and well made jeans has never been as complicated, as the denim market is constantly being flooded with new brands.

To answer the initial question that prompted this report, why are people spending $300.00 on a pair of jeans? Consumers will go to any means to look fashionable, be in style and feel good about themselves.

SEVENS FOR ALL MANKIND   Price Point (CDN $): $215-$300 Description of Current Product Line: Large range of styles, fits, colours and washes for both men and women. Pros: Great quality, wash well. Cons: Fits don’t cater to curvy body types, not very low cut jeans. Would I Buy It? No               CITIZENS OF HUMANITY   Price Point (CDN $): $208-$300 Description of Current Product Line: Small range of fits, styles and colours for women only. Pros: Great fit, snug to the body, great for curvy women, excellent quality, wash well. Cons: Stretch out a bit after wearing. Would I Buy It? YES!!                   PAPER DENIM & CLOTH   Price Point (CDN $): $200-$300 Description of Current Product Line: Hand finished jeans, small number of jeans produced. For men, women and children. Pros: One of few premium brands to offer childrens line. Very unique jean, as not very many pairs are produced. Cons: Very slim fit, made for those with slim figure. Would I Buy It? No.                   SALT WORKS   Price Point (CDN $): $160-$230 Description of Current Product Line: Three different fits of jeans for women name after NYC streets. Simple jeans that fit any body type. Pros: Price is slightly lower than competitors, great fit, wash well. Cons: Hard to find in Canada, no variety of washes, very plain! Would I Buy It? No                       ROCK & REPUBLIC   Price Point (CDN$): $199-$300 Description of Current Product Line: Variety of fits, washes, colours and styles for women named after Rock stars. Pros: Fit very well to the body, have a lot of stretch in them. Fit low and are long enough to wear heels with. Cons: Thin material, not very good quality. Would I Buy It: Yes.

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